Cinnabar Red Chanterelles: Flavor and Visual Impact of Wild Red Mushrooms

Greatly appreciated guests: red chanterelles in my front yard

One day in mid-July as I was scurrying towards my car, my peripheral vision registered lusciously red twinklings amidst the greenery of my front yard. To my surprise, greatly appreciated guests, answering to the common name of red chanterelles, were homesteading in my front yard, equidistantly among the Chinese chestnut (Castanea mollissima) and Virginia red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) to the south, honey locust sapling (Gleditsia triacanthos) and English yew (Taxus baccata) to the southeast, English yew (Taxus baccata), silver maple (Acer saccharinum), and box elder (Acer negundo) to the northeast, and two Eastern white pines (Pinus strobus) to the north.

Their appearance in my front yard likely is occasioned by massive nearby displacement of soil and vegetation as a developer uproots long-standing woody grasslands in this bucolic, rural county.

What are red chanterelles?

With their flamboyant coloring and petite size, red chanterelles are the red dwarfs of the mushroom universe. Considered to be one of the most beautiful New World mushrooms, red chanterelles are fragrant, flavorful delicacies which promise a feast of the senses.

Red chanterelles are also commonly known as cinnabar red chanterelles and cinnabar chanterelles. Their scientific name is Cantharellus cinnabarinus. The genus name, Cantharellus, and the common name, chanterelle, are derived from the Greek κάνθαρος (kantharos) which refers to a deep drinking cup with two handles arching above the cup's mouth. The species name, cinnabarinus, is a Latin descriptor, derived from the Greek word κινναβαρι (kinnabari), for the color of cinnabar red, also known as vermillion. The mineral cinnabar, which is a common ore of the metal mercury, displays a color range of bright scarlet to brick red.

As a mushroom, red chanterelles belong to the fungi kingdom, which is separate from the animal, bacteria, and plant kingdoms. Mushrooms are actually the fruit, which is produced aboveground by the organism. The organism's essence lives below the ground as the mycelium, a vast structure of hyphae (Greek: ὑϕή, huphe, "web"), which are long, branching filaments.

Distribution: New World native

A New World native, this spectacular little mushroom is found in southern Canada and in the United States east of the Rocky Mountains, primarily in the eastern and southern states.

Red chanterelles often appear in great numbers in the area of the Chesapeake Bay, in the old-growth Eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) stands of Pennsylvania, and in the mixed conifer-hardwood forests of New England.

Red chanterelles take their first fruited bow in summer, around June or July, and linger into autumn, around September or October.

Habitat: leafy cover in the shelter of hardwoods

In the woods, red chanterelles usually peek out in exuberant multitudes from under leafy covered soil in proximity to hardwood forests, such as beeches (genus Fagus), birches (genus Betula) or oaks (genus Quercus), or mixed forests of hardwoods and conifers, that is, cone-bearing trees, such as elms (genus Ulmus), hemlocks (genus Tsuga), pines (genus Pinus), and spruces (genus Picea). Their nearness to hardwoods expresses their mycorrhizal (Greek: μυκός, mykós, "fungus" + ρριζα, rriza, "roots") relationship with trees. In this mutually beneficial, or symbiotic, relationship, the cells of the mycelium ensheathe the tree's rootlets, thereby easing the tree's absorption of nutrients and water. In return, the tree transmits sugars, such as glucose and sucrose, as well as amino acids, to the mycelium.

Organizational structure: alone or in a loose crowd

Individuals occur singly in solitary scatterings or gregariously in loose groups.

Externals: What red chanterelles look like

Red chanterelles are considered to be small mushrooms. Their cap, botanically termed a pileus, measures about 1/2 to 2 inches (1 to 5 centimeters) across. With a length of 3/4 to 2 inches (2 to 5 centimeters) and a width of 1/8 to 3/8 inches (3 to 9 millimeters), their stalk, botanically termed a stipe, casts a slender silhouette.

The color of their cap is mirrored more or less uniformly in their stalk. Initially, both cap and stalk range vibrantly in color from cinnabar red or red orange. The redness, which fades with age, pales into pinkish orange or flamingo pink.

The characteristic red color of youthful red chanterelles derives from canthaxanthin, an organic pigment which also occurs naturally in the feathers of certain species of flamingoes (genus Phoenicopterus) and in crustaceans such as brine shrimp (genus Artemia). Unknown until the mid-twentieth century, canthaxanthin was isolated in red chanterelle specimens and identified by marine biologist Francis Theodore Haxo (March 9, 1921-June 10, 2010) in 1950 while he was an assistant professor in the Biology Department at Baltimore's Johns Hopkins University. Canthaxanthin occupies the same family of carotenoid pigments as carotene, which is responsible for the orange color in carrots. Approved as a food additive by both the European Union and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), canthaxanthin is not approved by the FDA for tanning pills because of its side effects of liver and retinal damage.

In biology, a morph is a visual or behavioral difference in a member of a species. Sometimes yellow morphs of red chanterelles sprout as a homogeneous group. Or a morph may emerge in solitary distinction among the usual red color scheme of red chanterelles.

The shape of a red chanterelle's cap and stalk are likened to a funnel. Somewhat circular with wavy edges, the cap transforms vertically from the outwardly rounded convexity of youthful red chanterelles to more or less even flatness and finally at maturity to a depressed center which shapes the cap into a shallow vase. The cap's surface is smooth with wavy margins, or edges, which charmingly curl under. The stalk tapers downwards as a cylinder from the cap.

The underside of the cap has false gills which, unlike the structurally separate, knife-blade-like tissue plates of true gills, are narrow, blunt-edged folds in the cap's undersurface. Widely spaced and forked, they are decurrent (Latin: decurrere, "to run down"), which means that they extend down onto the stalk from under the cap.

Identification: key features

Petite size, fairly uniform coloring of all parts, their flamboyant redness, and the distinctive outline and spacing of the false gills all distinguish red chanterelles.

Spores, by which mushrooms propagate themselves through dispersion, are individually invisible, but a pile of multitudinous spores is discernible. The color of this mass, obtained in a spore print, is a critical identification feature. Spore prints in the wild are evinced in colored dust on a leaf or on the ground below the gills or false gills. Otherwise, to make a spore print, remove the stem, place the cap onto a piece of paper or a glass, and cover with an upside-down cup or glass to protect from air currents. The massive release of spores soon occurs. The smooth, thin-walled, ellipsoid spores of red chanterelles print as pinkish cream.

Unlike their golden, greatly prized relatives, the golden chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius), red chanterelles do not emit a noticeable or distinctive odor.

Red chanterelles are deliciously edible. An agreeable peppery taste is released, first subtly and then unmistakeably. Nevertheless, mycophagists (Greek: μύκης, mykēs, "fungus" + φαγεῖν, phagein, "to eat"), who eat fungi (especially mushrooms), and mycologists (Greek: μύκης, mykēs + -λογία, -logía, "branch of study”), who study fungi, do not recommend identifying mushrooms in the wild through taste tests. Mild gastrointestinal distress --- such as mildly upset stomach or mild diarrhea --- sometimes occurs in those unaccustomed to consuming non-cultivated mushrooms.

Beware of mistaken identity: Jack-o'-lanterns

Jack-o'-lanterns (Omphalotus illudens), classified as toxic mushrooms, are mistaken for chanterelles by the unitiated. Close inspection of key points removes all doubt.

Jack-o'-lanterns are the fireflies of the mushroom world as their bioluminescent gills glow blue green at twilight and in darkness.

Jack-o'-lanterns are bright orange to orange yellow with no hint of red or pink.

Jack-o'-lanterns have true gills.

A pleasant aroma, which is often noticeable, does not confuse red chanterelle hunters who know that reds tend to be odorless, but may confuse seekers of other chanterelle species.

Jack-o'-lanterns form dense clusters with all their stems either fused together or closely packed at the base.

Successful hunting: harvesting tips

The question arises whether to pluck red chanterelles out of the ground or to leave the base attached to the mycelium underground by delicately slicing off the stem just above ground level with a knife. Either method is acceptable, although a 13-year study of long-term growth patterns of chanterelles in Oregon forests apparently revealed a slight decline in future mushroom growth with the knife method (Greg A. Marley, p. 65).

Culinary appreciation: the flavor and visual impact of red chanterelle mushrooms in cuisine

While red chanterelles shrink somewhat during cooking, their vivid color does not fade but instead adds tantalizing brightness to the menu.

Their flavor, which slightly intensifies with cooking, imparts an enticing pepperiness to the menu. This pepperiness blends well with other flavors.

Red chanterelles should never be blasted with high heat, which toughens them.

Red chanterelles release liquids during cooking, so, especially in sautés, only a judicious amount of lemon juice or butter is necessary. For example, half a lemon's worth of juice suffices for each half pound of red chanterelles.

As well as sautés, red chanterelles complement cream sauces, omelettes, soufflés, soups, and vegetable dishes. Casseroles, quiches, and risottos welcome red chanterelles as an ingredient. This delicacy also enlivens meat, poultry, and seafood recipes visually while regaling the senses of smell and taste as well.

Preparatory handling prior to cooking: cleaning tips

NOTE ABOUT STORAGE: If unable to clean immediately, place uncleaned red chanterelles in a waxed paper or brown paper bag and store in vegetable crisper for up to three to five days. Red chanterelles should not be stored in plastic bags, which easily reduce these delicacies to an unappetizingly pathetic, mushy state.

NOTE ABOUT WATER: Use water sparingly while cleaning red chanterelles as they quickly become waterlogged. Therefore, washing under running water or soaking the freshly gathered red treasures is not ever recommended.

Cleaning: Remove as much debris as possible without water. Start by gently whisking away debris with a mushroom brush or a toothbrush.

For stubborn debris, use a soft, slightly dampened cloth for dabbing.

Place for airing on paper towels or soft, fluffy cloths.

NOTE ON STORAGE AFTER CLEANING: After cleaning, red chanterelles respond well to a few days of refrigeration. The best storage method at this point is a loose arrangement in a bowl lightly lined and lightly covered with cloth or paper towels.

Preservation: Canning, drying, freezing, pickling

For canning: Cut red chanterelles into big chunks and steam for 20 minutes. Then deposit steamed pieces into small canning jar(s). Cover pieces either with leftover steaming liquid or water or any favored canning liquid. Sterilize for 40 minutes; if using a pressure cooker, set pressure at 10 pounds.

For drying: Most chanterelles, including reds, do not respond well to preservation through dehydration, which emphasizes a disagreeably tough, chewy texture even after rehydrating. Nevertheless, stews agree with dried reds by tenderizing them during the long, slow cooking process. Drying may be done either with a dehydrator or on drying trays.

For manual drying, thinly slice after cleaning and nestle slices on paper towels atop screens or trays in a sunny, ventilated location for one to two days. Turn the slices over a few times so both sides are exposed to air currents. Brittleness and easy crumbling signal that dehydration is complete.

To rehydrate, barely cover with warm water. Allow to sit for at least 15 minutes. Reserve this soaking liquid afterwards as flavors from the dried reds are released into it. This flavored liquid may be added to gravy, rice, stews, etc.

For freezing: Red chanterelles emerge unscathed from proper freezing. It is important firstly to dry sauté reds in a pan over medium heat. Heat causes them to release stored liquid. This moisture then evaporates.

With only a little of the moisture remaining, add at least enough butter to cover the bottom of the pan, although generous amounts of butter are beneficial. Adding butter is important to release and preserve the flavorful components, which are fat soluble.

Seasoning may be added here; favorites include parsley, thyme, and tarragon, although reds work their magic on any and all seasonings. Sauté for about 5 minutes.

Sealed in freezer bags, reds rest nonchalantly in freezers. Removed for thawing, even a year or longer afterwards, reds awaken with gusto with their color, flavor, and texture all virtually intact and ready to please.

For pickling: Red chanterelles pickle extraordinarily well, especially in white wine. The addition of oil --- of which my favorites are olive, safflower, and sunflower --- at the beginning and at the end captures the above-mentioned, fat-soluble virtues of red chanterelles.

Deposit red chanterelles in a pot and add a bottle of white wine (my preference is for Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc), along with several teaspoons of oil. Cook for about 20 minutes on medium heat. Occasionally check that the pot does not boil dry, which usually does not happen due to the extra liquid released by the red chanterelles.

Squeeze one lemon --- or splash 2 to 3 tablespoons of lemon juice --- over the mushrooms after cooking and then toss several times.

Set a sufficiently-sized colander into another pot and empty the mushrooms and their cooking liquid into it.

After the liquid has mostly drained from the colander, pack red chanterelles into sterile jars, leaving at least one inch of headroom, that is, clearance from the jar lip. (NOTE: Sometimes I separate reds from the cooking liquid with a slotted spoon to keep the liquid in the cooking pot, which further binds flavors as the pot releases its built-up heat.)

In each jar, cover mushrooms with cooking liquid. Top with a few drops of oil.

Tightly apply lids.

Shake to dislodge any air bubbles trapped among the reds.

Store in the refrigerator, where these pickled treasures await their next command performance, lasting easily for one or two years!

The three following, popular recipes provide perfect settings for red chanterelles and emphasize their versatility as essential, unforgettable ingredients in sautés, soups, and main meat dishes.

As with all mushrooms, red chanterelles have a natural affinity for sautés. These reds strike a colorful, flavorful pose in the midst of such sauté favorites as bell peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, celery, scallions, shallots, and snow peas.

The sparkle of red chanterelles in a creamy corn puree beckons the taste buds and gladdens the occasion.

Perched proudly atop a scintillating steak, red chanterelles ooze the perfect harmony of congenial flavors.

Recipes for these three supremely delicious yet distinctively different dishes are provided below.

(NOTE: Although I prefer organic products, I have not specified such in these recipes. Rest assured that these recipes are delicious whether or not organic ingredients are used.)

Enjoy! Bon appétit! Buon appetito!

Sautéed Medley

Cooking time: about 15 to 20 minutes

Ingredients

Red onions, scallions, shallots or any onion favorite (portion according to personal preference)

Butter or oil (2/3 cup butter or 1/4 cup oil for every half pound of chanterelles)

Lemons or lemon juice (1/2 lemon or 1 Tablespoon for every half pound of chanterelles)

Red chanterelles or chanterelle medley, especially of reds with golden chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius) and smooth chanterelles (Cantharellus laeteritis).

Instructions

Slice or chop chanterelles and onions.

Place chanterelles in saucepan over low heat to allow them to release their stored water.

When most of the chanterelles' moisture has evaporated, add butter or oil as well as onions.

Sauté for 15 to 20 minutes.

Baked medley

Cooking time: about 35 minutes

4 servings as side dish

Ingredients

1 pound of chanterelles, halved or quartered

1 medium red onion (or favorite onion variety), chopped

1/4 cup chicken or vegetable broth

1/2 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons minced parsley

Instructions

Place chanterelles in bottom of buttered, small casserole dish. (NOTE: If desired, lightly sprinkle with flaked or ground tarragon or thyme or favorite seasoning.)

Layer with onions.

Bake, with cover on, for 20 minutes at 350° in preheated oven.

Remove from over and remove cover.

Add broth and then cream. (NOTE: If desired, lightly dust with black pepper or granulated garlic or favorite seasoning.)

Return to oven, uncovered, to bake for about 15 more minutes.

(NOTE: This recipe is my adaptation of "Chanterelles in Oven" by Louise Freedman and the Mycological Society of San Francisco.)

4 servings as side dish

Cooking time: about 40 minutes

Ingredients

1 tablespoon butter

1 medium red onion, diced

A dash (about 1/8 teaspoon) kosher salt

Red chanterelle mushrooms, up to ½ pound, chopped (about 2 cups chopped)

1 medium red potato, diced

4 cups corn kernels (white or yellow)

4 cups chicken broth

2 fresh sprigs (1 teaspoon) thyme

1 whole bay leaf (¼ teaspoon crushed)

¼ cup heavy cream

Instructions

Melt butter in large, 4-quart saucepan over low to medium heat.

Adding diced onions and dash of salt, reduce to low heat, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 to 10 minutes.

Adding red chanterelles, potatoes, corn, broth, thyme, and bay leaf, increase to medium heat and bring to a boil.

Reducing to low heat, simmer for about 15 minutes until potatoes soften.

Turn off heat. Allow soup to cool slightly, about 5 minutes.

(NOTE: If desired for garnish, set aside 8 to 16 chunks, at 2 to 4 chunks per serving, in a small saucepan.)

Remove bay leaf and discard.

Puree soup until nicely smooth.

Return puree to saucepan.

Set burner at medium-low heat.

Gently stir while slowly drizzling heavy cream into pan. (Adjust to desired consistency by adding more or less heavy cream.)

Simmer until warmed throughout, about 5 minutes. (NOTE: If garnish of red chanterelles is desired, set heat on low under portioned small saucepan and warm at the same time, for about 5 minutes.)

Red chanterelle marinade for filet mignon

Ingredients:

1 cup oil (my favorite oils are extra virgin olive, safflower, or sunflower)

1 pound red chanterelles, mainly sliced or chopped, but with at least several chanterelles left whole

Marinade ingredients:

¼ cup fine wine vinegar, balsamic or fruit vinegar (my favorite is tarragon vinegar)

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (for a special, rare treat, use Charroux Mustard [moutarde de Charroux], considered as one of the world’s best and most expensive mustards)

Pinch of fresh herbs such as marjoram, oregano, savory, or tarragon (1/16 teaspoon if dried)

Instructions:

Heat oil in sauté pan over medium until hot.

Add chanterelles.

Toss while sautéing, about 5 minutes.

Combining marinade ingredients in bowl, add chanterelles and oil.

Marinate in refrigerator for at least 4 hours.

Stays fresh for 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

Instructions: Filet mignon with red chanterelles

Prepare filet mignon according to preference (broil, grill, pan fry, roast)

Place desired amount of marinade in sauté pan and heat on low for about 15 minutes. Time chanterelles sautéing with method of cooking filet mignon.

Drizzle marinade over filet mignons and, if desired, top each steak with one whole red chanterelle.

(NOTE: This recipe is my adaptation of Berkeley chef Paul T. Johnston's "Marinated Chanterelles" in Wild About Mushrooms by Louise Freedman.)

My special thanks to talented photographers/concerned organizations who make their fine images available on the internet:

*** Bill Russell (mushroomhunter) for October 16, 2006 Flickr photo of Red chanterelles (Cantharellus cinnabarinus) (Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license)

*** Chris Evans, River to River Cooperative Weed Management Area (River to River CWA), for Bugwood.org photos, panorama of red chanterelles (5427086) and closeups (5427090, 5427092, 5427093) (Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 3.0 United States License)

*** Tracy (muscogeegirl) for September 19, 2009 Flickr photo, "Cantharellus cinnabarinus, Mitchell Hill, Acworth, Georgia" (Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license)

*** Thiophene_Guy for Flickr photos at Audubon Sanctuary, Oaks, Pennsylvania: June 29, 2009 photo of yellow morph of Cinnabar red chanterelle," June 24, 2009 and June 29, 2009 closeups, and June 29, 2009 overexposed closeup (Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license)

*** Tom Ward (taroman) for August 20, 2006 Flickr photo of "Red chanterelles, Pisgah National Forest, near Brevard, North Carolina" and October 8, 2007 Flickr photo of chanterelle sauteed medley with onions in olive oil, garlic, and ginger (Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license)

*** Norman D. Davis for Bugwood.org photo of red chanterelles (Cantharellus cinnabarinus) (UGA1498110) (Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 3.0 United States License)

*** Jason Hollinger (pellaea) for August 5, 2007 Flickr photo, "Jack-o'-lantern mushroom, Omphaltous illudens, George Washington National Forest, Shenandoah Mountain" (Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license)

*** A. Lau (are you gonna eat that) for August 8, 2009 Flickr photo, "Puree of fresh corn with chanterelle mushrooms, Red Ox Inn, Edmonton) (Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic license)

*** ulterior epicure for August 11, 2005 Flickr photo of red chanterelle atop filet mignon (Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic license)

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Copyright Wednesday, August 10, 2011 by Derdriu